How to fix a dripping tap yourself: a step-by-step guide

Most dripping taps can be fixed by a competent homeowner in under an hour, with parts costing between $5 and $40 from your local Bunnings or Reece Plumbing store. A successful repair means no drip within about 60 seconds of closing the tap, no weeping at the packing nut, and no moisture around the isolation valves. The job is not DIY territory if the tap body is cracked, the isolating valves are seized, or the work requires altering supply pipes — those situations call for a licenced plumber.

Beyond the annoyance, a dripping tap can waste up to around 20,000 litres of water a year, adding real money to your water and sewerage bills while staining your sink. Fixing it yourself is almost always worth the effort.

Key takeaways

Most dripping taps can be fixed by a homeowner in under an hour for under $20 in parts, provided the tap type is correctly identified and the water supply is properly isolated first.

Table of Contents

• What tools and parts do you need before you start?
• How do you identify which type of tap you have?
• How to isolate the tap and prepare the work area safely
• How to fix a compression (washer) tap step by step
• How to replace a ceramic cartridge in a mixer tap
• What to do when a new washer or cartridge doesn’t stop the drip
• Quick troubleshooting: what’s causing your tap to drip?
• When should you call a licenced plumber instead?
• Common DIY mistakes plumbers see — and how to avoid them
• A quick note from us at Reactive Plumbing & Electrical
• Not keen on DIY? Here’s how Reactive Plumbing & Electrical can help
• Sources
• FAQ

What tools and parts do you need before you start?

Getting everything together before you touch the tap saves a second hardware store run. The repair itself is straightforward; being caught mid-job without the right washer is what turns a 20-minute fix into a two-day ordeal.

Essential tools:

• Adjustable spanner (shifting spanner)
• Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers
• Allen keys (hex keys) — needed for many modern mixer taps
• Slip-joint pliers with a cloth wrap to protect chrome
• Basin plug or small rag to block the drain
• Silicone plumber’s grease (not petroleum-based — more on that below)
• Torch for peering under the sink

Common parts to buy in Australia:

• Rubber washer assortment pack ($3–$8 at Bunnings or Mitre 10)
• O-ring kit ($5–$12)
• Ceramic cartridge, matched to your tap brand ($15–$40 at Reece Plumbing or Bunnings)

Replacing washers or O-rings typically costs under $20, and a tap reseating tool runs around $35–$55 if the valve seat turns out to need attention.

Pro Tip: Take the old washer or cartridge with you to the store. Tap brands like Caroma, Methven, Dorf, and Felton each use specific cartridge sizes, and a visual match at the counter is far more reliable than guessing from a description.

How do you identify which type of tap you have?

Getting the tap type right before you buy parts is the single most important step. Buying a ceramic cartridge for a washer tap, or vice versa, means a wasted trip and a tap still dripping.

Quarter-turn ceramic disc taps are common in modern Australian homes, while older homes often have multi-turn washer taps — and the repair approach differs completely between them.

Quick diagnostic checklist:

• Single lever or two handles? A single lever is almost always a ceramic cartridge mixer. Two separate handles usually indicate compression (washer) taps, though some modern two-handle sets also use cartridges.
• How many turns to open fully? Quarter-turn (90 degrees) means ceramic disc. Multiple turns mean a washer tap.
• Where is the drip coming from? A drip from the spout tip points to the washer or cartridge. A leak around the handle base usually means a worn O-ring or packing nut.
• Does it drip only on the hot side? Hot-side-only drips often indicate a heat-degraded washer or O-ring rather than a cartridge fault.

Common Australian brands to watch for include Caroma, Methven, Dorf, and Felton. Each has its own cartridge profile, so note any model markings stamped on the tap body or under the handle cap.

Pro Tip: Photograph the tap from multiple angles and photograph the old cartridge or washer before you head to the store. Reece Plumbing staff can often match a part from a photo alone.

How to isolate the tap and prepare the work area safely

Water damage from a poorly prepared repair costs far more than the tap itself. Take two minutes to do this properly.

Always turn off the isolating valves under the sink first; if no isolator exists, turn off the mains at the meter and open the tap to drain residual water before starting work.

Step sequence:

1. Locate the isolating valves under the sink — they are usually quarter-turn brass valves on the hot and cold supply lines. Turn them clockwise until they stop.
2. If there are no under-sink isolators, go to the water meter (typically near the front boundary or in a meter box at the side of the house) and turn off the mains stopcock.
3. Open the tap fully to drain any residual water from the line.
4. Place the basin plug or a rag over the drain — small screws and washers disappear down drains with remarkable speed.
5. Lay a cloth or rubber mat in the basin to protect the surface and catch drips.
6. Put on gloves; old tap fittings can have sharp edges and grime.

Safety callout: Stop immediately and call a licenced plumber if the isolation valves are seized and won’t turn, if you notice the tap body is cracked, or if reaching the supply requires cutting into walls or altering pipework. Forcing a seized valve can cause a burst pipe and a far more expensive emergency.

How to fix a compression (washer) tap step by step

Washer taps are the workhorses of older Australian homes. The repair is satisfying, quick, and costs almost nothing. Standard washer replacement involves removing the handle, undoing the bonnet nut, extracting the spindle and jumper valve, replacing the washer, then reassembling and testing — with a valve seat check if the drip continues.

What you need for this repair:

• Adjustable spanner
• Flathead screwdriver
• Correct washer size (bring the old one to match)
• O-ring to suit the spindle
• Silicone plumber’s grease

Steps:

1. With the water isolated and the tap drained, prise off the decorative cap on top of the handle (usually a small plastic disc) and undo the screw underneath.
2. Pull the handle straight up and off the spindle. If it’s stuck, wiggle gently — never force it.
3. Use the adjustable spanner to undo the bonnet nut (the large hexagonal nut below the handle). Turn anticlockwise.
4. Pull out the spindle assembly. At the bottom you’ll find the jumper valve with the rubber washer held by a small brass nut or press-fitted into a recess.
5. Remove the old washer. Note its diameter and thickness before discarding it.
6. Fit the new washer. Apply a thin smear of silicone plumber’s grease to the new O-ring on the spindle body.
7. Reassemble in reverse order: spindle into body, bonnet nut hand-tight then a quarter-turn with the spanner, handle on, screw in, cap replaced.
8. Turn the water back on slowly and test. No drip within 60 seconds means success.

If it still drips after a new washer: the valve seat is likely scored or corroded. See the reseating section below.

Time and cost: 15–30 minutes, $3–$10 for parts. A DIY washer repair typically costs under $20 all up.

Pro Tip: Washer sizes are not universal. The most common sizes in Australian homes are 12 mm and 15 mm, but always match by taking the old washer with you rather than guessing.

How to replace a ceramic cartridge in a mixer tap

Mixer taps with a single lever or a quarter-turn action use a ceramic disc cartridge rather than a rubber washer. The cartridge is a sealed unit, so the repair is a straight swap rather than a component-level fix.

What you need:

• Allen keys (hex keys) — most modern mixer handles use a grub screw
• Adjustable spanner
• Replacement cartridge matched to your tap model
• Silicone plumber’s grease

Steps:

1. With the water isolated, look for a grub screw on the side or underside of the handle. Undo it with the correct Allen key and lift the handle off.
2. Remove any decorative shroud or cover plate beneath the handle to expose the cartridge retaining nut.
3. Undo the retaining nut anticlockwise with the adjustable spanner.
4. Lift the cartridge straight out. Note the orientation carefully — most cartridges have locating tabs or a flat edge that must align correctly on reinstallation. Photograph it before removing.
5. Take the old cartridge to Reece Plumbing or your nearest Bunnings and match it by size, tab position, and brand. Caroma, Methven, Dorf, and Felton cartridges are not interchangeable.
6. Apply a thin smear of silicone grease to the new cartridge’s O-rings and seat it in the correct orientation.
7. Refit the retaining nut, replace the shroud, reattach the handle, and tighten the grub screw.
8. Turn the water on slowly and test both hot and cold positions.

Pro Tip: Taking the old cartridge to a plumbing supplier avoids incorrect purchases and repeat trips. Reece Plumbing branches stock a wide range of brand-specific cartridges and staff can cross-reference by the part itself.

Time and cost: 20–60 minutes depending on access, $15–$40 for the cartridge.

What to do when a new washer or cartridge doesn’t stop the drip

If you’ve replaced the washer or cartridge and the tap still drips, the valve seat is the likely culprit. The valve seat is the machined brass ring inside the tap body against which the washer presses to form a seal. A scored or corroded seat prevents any washer from sealing properly, no matter how new it is.

Worn washers, faulty O-rings, corroded valve seats, and worn ceramic cartridges are the most common causes of a dripping tap — and a persistent drip after a washer change often points directly to the valve seat.

Signs the seat needs attention:

• New washer fitted correctly but drip continues at the same rate
• Washer shows an uneven wear ring or a groove pressed into its face
• Visible pitting or scoring when you shine a torch into the tap body

For light seat damage — DIY reseating:

A tap reseating tool (also called a seat dresser) grinds the seat back to a smooth, flat surface. These cost around $35–$55 at Bunnings or Mitre 10 and are reusable. Insert the tool into the tap body, apply gentle downward pressure, and rotate several times. Flush the body with water before reassembling to clear any brass filings.

When to stop and call a plumber:

• Deep pitting or corrosion that the reseating tool can’t flatten in two or three passes
• The tap body itself shows cracks or corrosion around the seat
• The seat is a replaceable type and has come loose (this requires specialist tools)

Pro Tip: After reseating, run water through the open tap body for 30 seconds before fitting the new washer. Brass filings left in the seat will score the fresh washer immediately.

Quick troubleshooting: what’s causing your tap to drip?

For a broader view of tap leak troubleshooting patterns and quick fixes, BHG Australia offers a useful reference for common drip scenarios.

Pro Tip: High water pressure is a hidden cause of repeat washer failures. If your washers wear out every few months, ask a plumber to check your mains pressure. Australian standards recommend a maximum of 500 kPa at the meter; anything higher accelerates washer wear significantly.

When should you call a licenced plumber instead?

Some situations genuinely require a professional, and recognising them early saves money. Attempting repairs beyond the scope of DIY can turn a $20 fix into a $500 emergency.

Clear red flags — stop and call a plumber if:

• Isolation valves are seized and won’t turn with moderate hand pressure
• The tap body is visibly cracked or corroded through
• The leak is coming from concealed pipework inside a wall or under a slab
• The drip persists after replacing both the washer/cartridge and reseating the valve seat
• The work involves the hot water system, gas lines, or requires cutting into supply pipes
• You cannot locate or access the mains shutoff

If isolation valves are seized, the valve seat is damaged, the tap body is cracked, or the work requires altering supply pipes, a licenced plumber is the right call.

In Australia, homeowners can legally replace washers, O-rings, and cartridges in accessible taps. Work that involves altering supply lines, moving fixtures, or touching gas connections must be carried out by a licenced plumber. When you do call one, photograph the tap, the old parts, and the area under the sink before they arrive — it speeds up diagnosis and quoting considerably.

For guidance on when DIY crosses into licenced territory, Reactive Plumbing & Electrical has a practical breakdown of the boundary.

On cost: A plumber call-out for a tap repair in Australia typically ranges from $150 to $350 depending on the complexity and your location. That’s still far less than the cost of water damage from an ignored leak or a botched repair on a cracked tap body.

Common DIY mistakes plumbers see — and how to avoid them

Licensed plumbers see the same errors repeatedly. Most of them are avoidable with a small adjustment in technique or approach.

• Overtightening the bonnet nut or packing nut. Plumbers frequently see cracked tap bodies and stripped threads caused by overtightening. Hand-tight plus a quarter-turn with a spanner is enough. If it still weeps, the problem is the washer, not the torque.
• Forcing a stuck handle. Handles corrode onto spindles over years of use. Forcing them cracks the body or strips the thread. Apply penetrating oil, wait 10 minutes, then try again with a gentle rocking motion.
• Using petroleum-based grease or WD-40 on O-rings. Petroleum products degrade rubber O-rings, causing them to swell and fail within weeks. Use only silicone-based plumber’s grease.
• Buying the wrong cartridge size. A cartridge that looks close enough rarely seals correctly. Always match by taking the old part to the store.
• Skipping the valve seat check. Fitting a new washer without inspecting the seat is the most common reason a repair fails and the homeowner ends up calling a plumber anyway.

Overtightening is the mistake we see most often when a homeowner has already attempted a repair before calling us. A cracked tap body means the whole tap needs replacing — a job that costs several times more than the original washer repair would have. Gentle persuasion and the right part will always outperform brute force.

A quick note from us at Reactive Plumbing & Electrical

We work with homeowners across Sydney, Newcastle, Wollongong, Brisbane, Ipswich, and the Gold Coast, and tap repairs are one of the most common calls we receive. Most of the time, the homeowner has already done the hard diagnostic work — they know which tap, they’ve bought a part, and they just need a hand with the next step or a confirmation that the valve seat is the problem.

When DIY isn’t the right path, we offer 24/7 emergency support, on-site valve seat reseating, cartridge matching for less common brands, and full tap replacement where needed. If you’re not sure whether your situation is DIY-ready, send us a photo of the tap and the old part when you get in touch. It lets us give you an accurate quote without a preliminary visit in most cases.

Not keen on DIY? Here’s how Reactive Plumbing & Electrical can help

Reactive Plumbing & Electrical gives you a faster, lower-stress path to a drip-free tap — without the risk of a cracked body or a second hardware store run. Our licenced plumbers carry common washers, O-rings, and cartridges on the van, so most tap repairs are completed in a single visit. We offer same-day attendance across Sydney, Newcastle, Wollongong, Brisbane, Ipswich, and the Gold Coast, with a 24/7 emergency line for situations where the water can’t wait.

We handle washer replacements, cartridge swaps, valve seat reseating, and leak detection for leaks that aren’t as straightforward as a dripping spout. If you’ve already attempted a repair and the drip continues, that’s exactly the kind of job we’re set up for. Send a photo of the tap and any parts you’ve already replaced when you book, and we’ll come prepared.

To get a quote or book a same-day visit, contact Reactive Plumbing & Electrical directly through our leaking tap repair page.

Sources

These resources are worth bookmarking if you want additional guidance or need to source parts locally.

Authoritative guides:

• How to fix a dripping tap: step-by-step guide for Australian homes | RACV
• How to Fix a Leaking Tap in Australia (Step-by-Step Guide) | Trusted Plumbers
• How to Fix a Dripping Tap (Australian Homes) – Home Upkeep
• Fixing a leaking tap – Home Hardware
• DIY fixes (replacing washers, O-rings, or tightening screws) often cost under $20 | My Renovation Guide
• How to fix a leaky tap: step-by-step guide for Australian homes | Aussie Home Improvement

Where to buy parts in Australia:

A note on disposal: old rubber washers and O-rings are small but worth keeping out of landfill where possible. Check whether your local council’s soft plastics or rubber recycling accepts them. Cartridge packaging is usually cardboard and recyclable kerbside. Brass fittings from a full tap replacement can go to a metal recycler.

FAQ

Can I fix a dripping tap myself?

Yes, most dripping taps can be fixed by a homeowner. Replacing a washer or ceramic cartridge is legal DIY work in Australia and typically takes under an hour with $5–$40 of parts.

How do I get my tap to stop dripping?

Identify whether you have a washer tap or a ceramic cartridge tap, isolate the water supply, then replace the worn washer or cartridge. If the drip continues after a new part, inspect and reseat the valve seat.

Is it worth fixing a dripping tap?

Absolutely. A dripping tap can waste up to around 20,000 litres of water a year, adding to water and sewerage bills while causing staining and fixture damage. A DIY repair costs under $20 in most cases, and ignored leaks tend to worsen over time.

How do I fix a leaking tap in Australia?

Turn off the isolating valves under the sink (or the mains meter if there are no isolators), identify your tap type, then follow the washer replacement or cartridge replacement steps above. Take the old part to Bunnings or Reece Plumbing to match the replacement exactly.

When should I call a plumber for a dripping tap?

Call a licenced plumber if the isolation valves are seized, the tap body is cracked, the leak persists after replacing the washer or cartridge and reseating the valve seat, or if the repair involves altering supply pipes or touching gas connections.

Recommended

• How To Fix A Leaking Tap Quickly | Reactive Plumbing
• Temporary fixes for burst pipes: stop the damage fast
• How burst water mains are repaired: 2026 guide
• Why water leaks worsen without repairs: the real cost